Weeks Seven - Nine,

15 December 2001

Crossing the Atlantic, Gran Canaria to St Lucia.... Firstly let me tell you that we all arrived safely in St Lucia last Friday, secondly I'd like to confirm that its darn hot here, especially while sitting below writing this.

I kept a diary on the crossing which will be the source for writing this. So here we go from the beginning...

My Carnival Queen Experience

In Las Palmas the ARC Race is really something, there were so many people there to wave us off, I felt like a carnival queen as we motored out of the marina walls, I stood there waving at everybody, it was a great build up to the start which was still over an hour away. At 12.40PM the racing division started and at 1PM the other 180 boats in the cruising division headed for line, it was madness with everybody getting luffed as the bigger boats breezed their way through the fleet. Opus 5 a 90ft super yacht was one of the beauties, as well as Heaven Can Wait a modern classic, and of course two beautiful X-yachts a X612 and a X562. I was hoping to hoist the spinnaker when we crossed the line, but it was quite breezy out so we settled for our number 2 genoa. Those who did put their spinnakers up were struggling and most of them came back down. It was blowing around 25knots and we did 11.1 knots, only 0.3 of a knot slower than what we did in Cowes Week this year with the spinnaker up!!! As the night began to set in, we took down the mainsail for a safe night and were later greeted by dolphins (ocean spinners) who put on a fantastic acrobatic show for us.

The wind stayed strong all night, which made an uncomfortable night below, and when a wave knocked us right over Matt and I were flung from our berth into the table, which was so securely bolted down it ripped through the floor and collapsed half the bed, it was all quite frightening and I certainly didn't fall asleep again before going back on watch. As morning broke it seemed to calm down but we didn't hoist the mainsail as we were still averaging about 7knots. We covered over 150nmiles in our first 24hours which is fantastic. If El Syd have the same wind as us they'll be almost halfway there! If they average 15knots everyday, they'll arrive in St Lucia in 7.5 days, how crazy is that! On these big waves I'm not sure it would be that comfortable.

Oh what a night, the 2AM - 6PM shift is doomed. Around the same time the table broke Sunday night, tonight a huge wave broke over the back of the boat and soaked both Matts through to their undies, luckily I was a little further forward in the cockpit and got away lightly. Day 2 saw another afternoon of sun and I was very excited to notice that my legs are browner than Matt's! I'm still searching for a whale. Ooh, we lost another lure off the fishing line yesterday, I think thats now 3. We should be in the Tropics in the next few days. The waves are still really large, hope they change a little at some point during the trip. It all seems very bariable so far and I think this will be the windiest bit.

Did someone say Hurricane...

Day 3, took another wave last night but this one filled my boots to the brim!! Today I wore a bikini!! It was actually only for about half an hour as I had the late afternoon watch but it still felt good. Mr G is looking bad, its the worst he has been yet, Matt B is currently creating him a cradle from an old water bottle which will hopefully hold him safe. We completed another 150nm today, things are looking good. If the boat wasn't so wet at night we could probably stay in our shorts. The waves are still big but seem a little less frequent. Still haven't seen another boat, I wonder where they all are?? Lost another lure off the fishing line! Only 3 left to go!!

Day 4, what a night!! We only took one wave and that was around 8.30PM, the other watch saw a cruise ship, we saw dolphins and then this morning we saw another yacht, and it was Magic Number, a Sigma 38, who were moored up opposite us in Las Palmas, we've seen shoals of flying fish, and Suzannah nearly caught a fish. Magic Number mentioned a hurricane, so now we're wondering whats going on out there. Mr G looks a little better today but that didn't really take much!!

Day 5, under 2000nmiles to go!!! Although it doesn't really excite me, I'm enjoying hanging out and getting a tan! Last night Suzannah got hit in the face by a flying fish! Oh my goodness I would have had such a fit if it had been me!! Its been a scorcher of a day and I've had to wear my sunhat. Still no idea where the rest of the fleet is. We've heard various boats on the VHF but the signals can bounce for miles out here, so they could be anywhere.

The Ultimate Birthday Experience...

Day 6, My birthday, I feel sick after my birthday party, we had champagne and the fattest chocolate cake ever, and between 5 of us it was a wedge each. The others are now on watch and I think they're a little tipsy after no alchol for 5 days!! My mum called which was very exciting and then my dad did too, he's been checking us out on the web and says we went backwards yesterday?? We also heard from Colin and Rhiannon, Matt's parents who are in South Africa, and the White Swan from Bovingdon. I finally got my Victoria Beckham book Learning to Fly which has been under my bed for the last 3 months. Today wasn't a scorcher but I think that was probably good as we all took a slight bashing yesterday. We have also covered a third of the distance. We still haven't caught a fish, although those flying fish are flinging themselves onto the boat!!

Day 7, today I feel restless. Its another baking day and I'd love to go swimming. The chart is slowly looking better. We're still cruising along at 6knots. There is still no sign of a fish but it keeps us amused for a few hours each day. We've heard nothing on the VHF for 2 days now. Last night was the first night we've sailed in our shorts. I'm already craving my surf and turf that I'm having on our arrival. I really want to go swimming and an icecream would be nice!!

We caught a Dorado...

Day 8, this morning started with rain but yet again its turned into a burner. We've jibed for St Lucia, and covered a record 164nm in a day. The clocks are also going back one hour. Had a terrible night below it was rolling in every direction possible. I've had to put a t-shirt on as its so hot. Started discussing our Christmas dinner, I think I'm becoming obsessed with food. Feeling alot better than yesterday. We caught our first fish. A dorado, it was yummy, first we had sushi then we fried the rest for dinner. YEAH!!

Day 9, we don't seem to be having the same luck with the fishing today. Today is so hot that Matt and I have rotated evey 30minutes on the helm, I thought I was going to pass out before I put my sunhat on. ARC are expecting the first boat in this Friday, we'll still have a week to go at that point.

Day 10, We caught a tuna, it wasn't ready to give in without a battle and unfortunately the tuna won and took with him our last hook. I think I might have seen a weavel in the pasta box last night, I've been bugging out over it ever since, I'm going to have to empty that side of the cupboard today to check.

Day 11, everyday has been hot but nothing, not one of them compares to today. As there is only 5knots of breeze, there isn't much hope in keeping cool or being comfortable down below. At lunchtime we were going nowhere, so we all jumped off the boat and had a little swim, the water was so blue it was amazing and to think the bottom was some 4km below us!! It certainly made us all feel better. This morning the Matts were feeling creative, Matt A was sewing buttons on his shorts and Matt B built a lure out of a few hair pins and a rubber glove, unfortunately we're not going fast enough to try it out just yet.

Jaws Attacks...

Day 12, The end of the fishing line. We attached Matt's work of art to the line, and when the fish took his bite, he took all 30meters of line and the hand reel, it was snatched right before their eyes and gave them quite a shock. Thinking about it now we think maybe it was a marlin or something along those lines rather than a shark!! No more fishing for the disco this trip. I'm gutted I'm not going to get my fresh tuna just yet. On the sailing front we've got around 11knots of breeze which is a definate improvement. It means we have probably beaten yesterdays distance of 62nm of which only 22nm took us closer to StLucia. This morning was another too hot day and it isn't much cooler below, however we're all sleeping really well as its so quite and flat. Really fancy a burger and chips today, and of course a shower!!!The first two boats finished today 20 minutes apart. Tonight we saw our first perfect horizon sunset...

Day 13, we've broken the 1,000nm to go barrier, bring it on!!! We celebrated at lunch with another bottle of bubbly, which went straight to everyone's head! We also put the clocks back another hour. Mrs Barnes called today to check up on her Matthew and told us that El Syd are doing well and are near Barbados. We passed another yacht in the night but there was no sign of them this morning to try and call them on the VHF. So the end of our trip is almost in sight, to think we have around 7 days left is really quite strange. I think the five of us have all adjusted quite well to sealife and sitting in the sun. Today is a little cooler, and I only mean a little!! There are a few clouds in the air which is making it a little more bearable, looks like its t ime for the sunhats!!

Guess who broke their Boom...

Day 14, the wind blew a steady 20-25 knots all night which is good and is still that way now, so we're covering a decent amount of miles ech day again. We saw Suzannah leap out of bed around 5AM as a fish had flown in through the hatch and into their bed, how mad is that! We received news of El Syd today from the ARC office and guess what, on Day 3 they broke their boom, oops after all those words of wisdom after us breaking ours!! My mum called again today and she was wondering if we were sick at all, I don't think people realise quite how comfortable our days are reading , writing and chatting in a bikini. We may still reach the 20day mark but it has been agreed that such talk is banned as last time it brought us 2 days of calm!

Day 15, WOW, we've got just under 700nm to go. We completely stormed it last night. It was so windy that at 1am this morning the Matt's and I were putting 2 reefs in. Started reading the sailors guide to the Windward Islands and I think I want to try every restaurant on every island!! Today has stayed overcast, giving us a chance to cool down, although getting burnt is still a possiblity. We have the distance of the Fastnet to go, I can certainly cope with that. Matt and I have been putting ideas together for Mr and Mrs Wide's holiday in January. Its my chore day today, and it is certainly a chore, at least the weather is cooler today so it shouldn't feel like a sauna in the heads while I'm cleaning it.

Matt B got a slap

Day 16, El Syd finished late yesterday, so we're about 5 days behind them which is quite reasonable. We have under 500nm to go!!! We had ready brek dolphins in the night, and all this talk of lobster is making my mouth water! Everyone is having crazy dreams, all connected to getting up and going on watch, luckily I convinced myself this morning that no matter when I thought I was awake I must just ignore it, can you believe it actually worked and I slept for 4 hours! The sun is back today in full force, so we're all lotioned up soaking up those rays. Matt B got his first flying fish slap in the face but fortunately the fish was smaller than my little finger - his face was sucha picture!!!

Day 17, A week ago we were hoping to finish today, today we are thrilled at the thought of finishing Friday. 324nm to StLucia!! Today is another scorcher so sun hats are back on in force. We placed the bets on finishing times and first sights on St Lucia, everyone's times are quite similar which is a good thing. I'm thinking these last 2 days are going to drag, oh well I'll paint my toe nails to take my mind off that thought!!

Day 18, can you believe there isn't much to say, we've still got over 24hours to go, so we're not quite into 'This is our last breakfast, our last lunch' but I'm sure we'll be full of it this evening!! The wind is blowing good, and we're averaging 7knots. This afternoon we had our first rain, luckily Matt and I had just gone off watch, and he told the others to put the washboards in, they said no its just going to be a little shower, Matt replied 'No put the washboards in' The shower lasted around 20minutes and Matt B and Suzannah got the shower gel out to wash, it was very funny to watch!!

Crossing the Line

Day 19, 6.7nm to go till the north point of the island, so we're looking at about 10nm altogether. St Lucia is huge ahead of us and we can see Martinque to our right. So our final night, what a surprise... Suzannah called downstairs at 5.45PM for an extra set of hands to put a second reef in, both Matt's went up as we were due on watch in 15 mins. At 6.15PM Matt ordered Matt and I to take down the mainsail and lash it to the deck as it was going to be a big one. As it came in, Matt said 'No matter what happens, even if we're 6ft under don't let go!' It reached just over 40knots, it was so dark we couldn't see beyond the masthead light that just shone a circle around us, at one point we couldn't even see that. My jaw hurt from gritting my teeth together and my hands hurt from holding on so tight. Everytime it looked like it was about to end the gusts just started again. By 6AM it had quietened down although still blowing over 20knots and gusting, there was also a large swell. So our arrival day in St Lucia was overcast, we didn't see StLucia till 1.30PM. Matt B won the bets and opened the last bottle of bubbly as we crossed the line, we were almost sad it was over. The photographer was there so we came in with our mainsail up too. WOW, WOW, WOW, can you believe we did it, loved every minute of it and yes we'd do it again.

I'm not quite so confident about the journey home being quite that good, so I think we might stay!!!

Revised -- Wednesday 19 December 2001

Continue to Weeks 10-12, Life in the Caribbean

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